FLYING HIGH

Flying high.

       “Alright! We’re going to Borrego Pass!” I cheered, slapping Elder Stanley on the back. We could hardly wait to check things out in our new area. The name itself had a magical ring to it. We bumped along the small dirt road making our way through the rough flatlands of Little Water before starting our climb upward. The narrowing canyon was bringing us closer and closer to the top of a mountainous plateau. The steep ravine off to the side of the road looked threatening.  “Just keep your eyes on the road,” I reminded Elder Stanley who was taking in the sights while driving. “A wrong move here could spell disaster!” This gap in the cliffs was the only way to the top without making a thirty-mile detour. Finally, clearing the last ridge, we pulled over and hopped out for a look-see. “The top of the world!” I shouted, my voice echoing down the canyon. From the edge of the steep sandstone cliffs it seemed we could see forever. Off in the distance I could make out the rugged stone formations of Whiterock over forty miles away, and even further on the horizon were the plateaus of Chaco Canyon National Monument.

Chaco Canyon National Monument.

Pueblo Bonito. Chaco Canyon National Monument.

      A scattering of pinyon pines nearby was a welcome sight. To some these trees might not have looked like much, but considering the treeless areas where I’d worked they were a forest! I could tell immediately that this area was something special.

Pinyon pines near Borrego Pass area, NM.

       The sun hung low in the sky as we pulled the truck to a stop in front of the Borrego Pass trading post, set the emergency brake, and went inside to introduce ourselves.

Borrego Pass Trading Post and LDS Chapel.

      The traders, Don and Fern Smouse, had spent years creating a remarkable homestead high on the Continental Divide. Mrs. Smouse greeted us with a friendly smile and offered to show us around. The trading post’s white stucco finish gave their place the look of a Spanish hacienda.

Interior of the Borrego Pass Trading Post.

     Behind the store they had built for themselves pleasant living quarters. The family room was laid our with large, comfortable leather chairs centered around a rustic wood-burning fireplace. Above the mantle hung a huge framed mirror reflecting the uniqueness of its surroundings. On closer inspection you could see the mirror had been edged with photos of their favorite missionaries. “Did your photo make the mirror?” had become an inside joke among the missionaries.

Elder Hatch and Elder Rogers enjoying the Smouses' private gardens. Borrego Pass Trading Post, NM.

      Just off the kitchen was a quaint patio leading to a private grassed-in area with fountains, birdbaths, flower gardens and a handful of fruit trees. Behind the trading post were a good number of barns, garages, coops and corrals used for their business. Set at a right angle to the storefront was a white stucco building. Inside the Smouses had built a small apartment for the missionaries and a side room large enough to hold church services.

Borrego Pass LDS Chapel. 1965.

Don and Fern Smouse. Borrego Pass, NM. 1965.

      Like most reservation traders the Smouses were strong, independent, no-nonsense kind of folks. In fact, Don had been sworn in as a County Sheriff, which meant that for his property and any other private properties close by he was “THE LAW.” You see, this corner of the reservation was called “The Checkerboard.” Scattered throughout the tribal lands were a number of private ranches. These ranches were under the jurisdiction of the County Sheriff’s Department.

Deputy Sheriff's Badge. McKinley County, NM.

     On more than one occasion we witnessed Don change from trader to Law Man. Sporting his sheriff’s hat and vest he would strap on his gun belt proudly displaying his weapon, badge and handcuffs. Most ruffians in the area knew exactly where Sheriff Smouse’s jurisdiction ended and where the Reservation began. Anywhere on tribal lands the Navajo Police ruled the roost.

Navajo Tribal Police badge.

      Following the grand tour of our new surroundings we unloaded our gear and settled in for the night. Bright and early the next morning Elder Stanley and I were out the door anxious to explore the upper plateau. To our surprise the dirt roads were comfortable to drive on, unlike the rocky ruts we had become used to down below. After traveling a couple of miles and venturing deeper up into the pines we came to a clean, well-organized camp. Outside we met up with Anna Largo, who was chopping wood in preparation for baking bread in her outdoor oven.  “Hm. An outdoor clay oven!" I hadn’t seen this before.

Anna Largo baking bread in her outdoor clay oven. Borrego Pass, NM. 1965. The Largos' chahaʼoh (summer shade house) can be seen in the background.

      We introduced ourselves and took over the wood chopping while watching with curiosity as Anna went about the business of baking. Once the bread was sealed inside the oven she relaxed, smiled and began filling us in on her family situation.

Anna Largo and her husband Tom with their oldest daughter. Borrego Pass, NM.

     Her husband, Tom, like so many Navajo men, was away from home working on a railroad crew. (On a side note, it was rumored that as a young man Tom had shot and injured Don Smouse’s son while the Smouse boy was working on their barn roof. But, for some unknown reason no one was forthcoming with the whys and wherefores of this curious incident.) For most of the year Anna was left on her own holding down the fort while caring for their three youngest children still at home. Her young daughter, Judy, was old enough to attend the Borrego Pass day school, a Bureau of Indian Affairs elementary school located about a half mile south of the trading post.

Judy Largo. (Elder Michael Stanley's photo). 1965.

      Sometime later Elder Stanley took a picture of Judy. It turned out to be a winner, capturing the innocence and beauty of the Navajo children. It was such an inspiring photo that soon copies were being pinned on apartment walls and carried around by a good number of Elders and Sisters.

      Anna Largo explained that her older kids were attending schools in Utah and Arizona on what was called the LDS Placement Program. This program provided an alternative to government boarding schools that the families felt was a positive situation for their youngsters. With their parents’ permission the kids would spend the school year living with a foster family and attending public schools alongside the children of their foster families. There were hundreds of Navajo students participating in this program. Borrego Pass had over twenty kids currently enrolled. Twenty may seem like a lot, but believe me, we were about to find out that there were many, many more children still living at home. After concluding our brief visit, Anna sent us on our way with a loaf of warm bread fresh out of her oven.

Harvesting Pinyon Pine Nuts.

     

Pine Nuts

      As we drove further up the mountain, we came across several families harvesting pine nuts. They would lay canvas tarps under the pine trees, then shake the branches with long hooked poles, thus causing a shower of ripe pine nuts to fall. We helped out for a while with the shaking and were rewarded with a small bag of pine nuts for our efforts. “Ah, pine nut heaven!” Elder Stanley quipped as were happily drove on our way, cracking open the nuts and enjoying their tasty contents. We made our way back off the mountainside, past the trading post, and headed south through the pasture lands of Mariano Lake with its blue-green Chapter House.

Cattle ranching on the Navajo Reservation.

      The families who lived in this Chapter were more into raising cattle than herding sheep. We came upon several camps where young men were working hard roping and branding their cattle. It was a hot, tough, dusty job. We watched with interest but thankfully were not invited to participate.

Branding cattle on the Reservation.

     From the looks of things rodeo was the number one sport for them. They had set up practice areas for bronc riding, calf roping, and other events. Elder Stanley exclaimed, “Yee-haw! We’re in cowboy country!” To me that sounded rather humorous as these cowboys were Indians.

Little Water, New Mexico. 1965.

      By afternoon we were off the plateau, back in Little Water and once again bouncing along rough and rocky dirt roads. At every stop we were surrounded by kids, and more kids. They loved being around the Elders! Our trip took us around the seven-mile Heart Butte Loop and back towards Borrege Pass Canyon. We visited a lot of camps, starting with the Little Toms and ending up with Lefty Mustache and his gang of young rascals. Each stop produced an even greater number of children than the one before. It was plain to see that we would be spending a lot of time working with youngsters.

Little Navajo Girl with her puppy.

      Arriving back at our place we sat down at our kitchen table and, while munching on a large bowl of Shredded Wheat, started making plans and setting goals. This was going to be fun!